Durban vegan eggplant curry
- 2 days ago
- 12 min read
This Durban vegan eggplant curry —usually simply called brinjal curry after the lead vegetable's name in various Indian languages —uses baked or grilled eggplant (aubergine) to bring a deep, slightly smoky tone to a curry brimming with the flavours of onions, pepper, chillies, tomatoes, coconut, and sweet potato in a rich mix of spices. It can be cooked fiery hot in accordance with the cliché about Durban curries or as a milder affair.
Indian Ocean spice routes
I first came across this vegan eggplant curry decades ago in Durban, where it's known as brinjal curry. I first ate it in a tiny place that a local entrepreneur, Mrs Naidoo, and her aunt ran in a side street off Berea Road near to the (then) Technikon Natal. And it was love at first bite. It was a popular place with students and with the artists and friends I'd visit after school who lived or had their studios or rehearsal spaces in this then "interzone" between the city's CBD, light industrial areas and routes to suburbia. While she was friendly enough, Mrs Naidoo was also always very busy, so I never got a chance to pin her down on how to cook it.
"Decades later, I experienced pretty much the same dish in Sri Lanka"
Then, quite unexpectedly, she turned up at a multicultural event for which I was a youthful volunteer. She had been contracted as the caterer to provide appropriate dishes for the Hindu and vegetarian delegates attending. I learned, it was one of the dishes she was going to be serving. Luckily for me, she had to wait around until the person with the relevant keys could be located to let her into the venue kitchen. I seized my chance and got the recipe out of her, writing it down on the back of the sheets of delegates I was to tick off as registering and meet-'n-greet.
Like many other South African Indian dishes, its origins lie in the cuisine of Southern India, with its rich heritage of Hindu vegetarian cuisine. Mrs Naidoo told me that while she wasn't certain of the exact provenance of the dish, she had been taught it by her grandmother whose own parents had emigrated to South Africa from Kochi (then Cochin) on the Malabar Coast in the early 20th century.
Decades later, I experienced pretty much the same dish in Sri Lanka. It immediately attracted my attention because in other parts of India while I often encountered brinjal bhaji served as an eggplant side dish, this was the first place I came across it integrated into a curry main dish as a star ingredient, which immediately brought to mind the Durban iteration. Save for a few minor differences in the recipe, it was surprising how similar it was.
One of the things I did find notable eating it in Sri Lanka was that it was not as spicy as the Durban versions I remember, even though Sri Lanka has a reputation for hot curries. I've given a bit of guidance below on how you can "hot it up" if this fairly spicy version is still a bit too mild for your tastes or, conversely, tone it down.
African vs Sri Lankan
This "Durban" curry is a bit of a hybrid of the version I first learned in South Africa and the version l later learned in Sri Lanka. These days I generally take this mix-'n-match approach, more based on convenience and what's available. But, for those who are purists or obsessed with so-called authenticity, here's a few things you might want to know, bearing in mind that much has changed since I last cooked this curry in Durban..
I'm using the smaller, less bitter Indian eggplant aka brinjal (or aubergine), a variety that is used from the Middle East to India and prized for its lack of bitterness. Back when I learned to cook it first, almost all eggplants in Durban were the larger black varieties which are more bitter. Thus I usually add double the quantity of brown sugar if I make it with these. And, while brown sugar is used as standard in Durban Indian cooking, if you want to make it more authentically Sri Lankan, use palm sugar or jaggery.
"Cayenne pepper is a unique spice in that it can be added at almost any stage of a dish to add spicy heat without messing with the underlying flavours"
Tinned coconut milk was rarely used in South Africa back then, due to cost, availability and going off quickly if—as was the case for many—you didn't have access to refrigeration. The original Durban version instead used creamed coconut—the kind that comes in a solid block—dissolved in boiling water to make the equivalent of 6 tbspns of "coconut cream". Either works well. As a tip, I would say that unless you have a use for the remainder of the coconut milk in the tin in the subsequent few days, go with the creamed coconut, which keeps well in the fridge and which you can cut from the block as you need it. By contrast, coconut milk doesn't keep in the fridge for very long and, while you can freeze it, it has a tendency to split and become "gritty". This is fine for certain Thai dishes where you boil the milk until it does exactly this, but not for much else.
If you don't have access to fresh curry leaves, you can use dried. Remember that the dried version have a stronger flavour—but less of an aroma—and you should add these to the pot a little earlier in the cooking process i.e. shortly after adding the coconut. .
The relatively small amount of crushed salted peanuts in this dish has two main purposes. Firstly, it actually helps the sauce to reduce and, secondly, it brings a rich "base" flavour, entirely not recognisable as "peanut". For this reason it is essential that they are roasted. I prefer to use store-bought roasted salted peanuts and salt the dish only after they have been added. But, if you prefer, you can roast your own peanuts. They should be a roughly ground. You can do this with a pestle and mortar though I do it in a mini-chopper and not in my spice grinder. If you have one of those fancy, sensitive spice grinders, that can be set to "coarse' you could use it. Basically you're looking for the peanuts to be broken to roughly the size of half a black peppercorn.
If you have a peanut allergy, you can simply leave them out and reduce for slightly longer. However the best alternative option to give this "base" flavour (and help reduction) is to add one tablespoon of gram flour (chickpea flour). But don't add it where the peanuts are added in the recipe below. Instead, add it and gently stir it in after the sweet potatoes have been simmering for a couple of minutes.
This recipe produces a moderately spicy curry—how do you describe how spicy something is? The way I would describe it is that if this was one of those pictograms that shows four chillies, this would be three out of four chillies.
If you want the authentic Durban fiery version, Double the amount of cayenne pepper and double the number of chillies, and/or don't deseed them—that is likely to be four-out-of four chillies. You can also substitute the garam masala (except for the ½tspn used at the end) with spicier Durban mother-in-law masala. But, unless you are a hardcore fan of hot (Durban) curries, I suggest you don't undertake all of these things at once. If using mother-in-law masala and adding the extra hot chillies, hold off on adding the additional cayenne pepper. Cayenne pepper is a unique spice in that it can be added at almost any stage of a dish to add spicy heat without messing with the underlying flavours, unlike cumin, coriander or turmeric powders that should always be added at early stages to reap their benefits. However, once it's in, it's in.
On the opposite end of the Scoville Scale—yes, kids, there is a scientific scale on which to measure the spiciness of chilli peppers—if you're not a huge fan of spicy curries, add only one de-seeded hot red chilli, don't use mother-in-law masala in lieu of garam masala, and only initially add a quarter of a teaspoon of cayenne pepper. You can always add a little more during the cooking if you like.
Take Note
This recipe is for 3 to 4 diners, depending on appetite and any side dishes. But, you can easily scale it up or down for a larger or smaller group.
The ginger and garlic here are more like vegetable ingredients than mere flavours, so chop them finely, but don't pulp them into a paste or use readymade garlic & ginger paste.
If you have (frozen) portions left over, you can reheat them in the microwave, but I find this tends to soften the eggplant skins, removing that pleasant "chew". I prefer to reheat it slowly on a lot heat in a pot and, if it is thick and therefore prone to stick while reheating, I mix in a couple of spoons of coconut milk (vs water).
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Shopping list
for the Durban vegan eggplant curry
Approx. 5 to 6 small "Indian" eggplants (or 1 or 2 larger aubergines); skin-on, cut into batons and roasted or grilled
2 large onions, (red or brown); sliced
1 large red bell pepper, sliced
3 thumb's lengths fresh ginger; peeled and chopped
5 or 6 cloves of garlic; peeled and chopped
1.5 cups roughly puréed fresh, ripe tomatoes (or tinned chopped tomatoes)
2 hot red chillies split, deseeded and chopped (optional)
3 or 4 tbspns peanut oil (or sunflower oil)
4 green cardamom pods ; bruised
1 tspn black mustard seeds
3 or 4 whole cloves
3 or 4 dried bay leaves
1 whole star anise
2½ tspns garam masala (keep ½ a tspn back to used at the end)
1tspn mild curry powder (e.g. Madras curry powder)
½ tspn freshly ground black pepper
1 tspn cayenne pepper (optional)
1 tspn mild Kashmiri chilli powder
2 tspns ground coriander powder
2 tspns ground cumin powder
2 handfuls of roasted, salted peanuts; roughly chopped/crushed
A large clutch of fresh coriander; chopped (including the stalks)
A few sprigs of fresh thyme
The juice and pulp of 1 fresh lime
1tspn of demerara sugar (or other dark brown sugar)
6 tbspns coconut milk
6 or 7 fresh curry leaves
Salt, to taste
sides and condiments
In Durban, this curry would usually be served with Durban yellow rice or roti. But in Sri Lanka, it is usually served with plain boiled basmati rice, sometimes with raw chopped coriander that isn't cooked into the rice, but stirred through when the rice is ready.
The whole concept of "starters"—apart from maybe poppadoms—is a bit of a movable feast in Indian cooking, most dishes being brought to table all at once or as they are ready. But I must confess that I love a good vegetable samosa on the side with this dish.
Mrs Naidoo would serve it with a delicious sambal of chopped mango and hot red chillies along with all the other achars and chutneys while in Sri Lanka, it usually came with cucumber and/or mint raitha. Take your pick. Or why not both?
Cooking Method
the Durban vegan eggplant curry
Prepare your eggplant first (see above). Lay the batons out on a baking tray on baking paper and baste with a small amount of oil and bake in an over pre-heated to 250°C for 20mins, turn and bake for a further 6 to 7min (unless already fully cooked). NB: I am using a specialist French perforated baking tray where the paper goes beneath, but place it in the baking tray if using a solid baking tray. Alternatively, you can cook them under the grill or over hot coals. Obviously, adjust the time if you are using bigger batons than I am here. Don't worry if they blacken a bit here and there. This will contribute to the final flavour of the dish. You can do this immediately before cooking the curry. Or, do it days before and keep in the fridge, allowing the eggplant to return to room temperature before adding to the curry in the late cooking stages
Add the oil to a pot or kadai with a lid, heating on a medium heat. Add all the whole spices and cook until the aromas release. Add the onions, and sauté, stirring occasionally. When the onions begin to soften, add the chillies and stir in
While these cook, mix all of your spice powders in a small bowl, adding about 50ml to 60ml of hot water. This will prevent them from burning in the hot oil. Add the chopped garlic and ginger to the pot and stir vigorously so that they sizzle in the oil. As soon as they begin to stick, add the spice and water mixture and mix in thoroughly. Stir regularly until the onions have notably softened but not necessarily totally browned
Add the sliced red pepper and stir in. As soon as the red pepper strips are fully coated in the juices, add half a cup of hot water, reduce to a low-medium heat, cover and simmer for approx. 6 to 7mins
When most of the liquid has cooked off, add the tomatoes and all of their juices and the ground black pepper. Stir in and cook for approx 1min. Then add approx.1 cup of hot water and, if necessary, increase the heat slightly to bring the contents to a healthy simmer. Cover and simmer for 10 to 12mins
By this time, the liquid should have notably reduced. Uncover, add the crushed peanuts and stir in. Re-cover and cook for another 2mins or so
Uncover and add the chopped coriander and fresh thyme. Allow it to wilt on the surface briefly, then stir in. After another minute or so, add the cubed sweet potato and fold in. Add approx. another half cup of hot water—just enough so that the sweet potato is three-quarters submerged—then cover and simmer gently for 10mins on a low heat or until the sweet potato is cooked, but not yet breaking up
Add the lime juice and pulp and stir in. Half a minute later, add the coconut milk and stir in. Simmer gently for approx 6mins. Once the liquid further reduces, add the brown sugar and stir in and simmer until the liquid has reduced still further—this is a curry that should not be too watery nor too thick. Taste and add salt as needed
Add the half a teaspoon of garam masala and fresh curry leaves and stir in. Once the curry leaves release their aroma, reduce to a very low heat
Add the roasted eggplant batons. Gently fold in. You want them to be fully heated through and assimilated, but you also don't want them to become too soggy or to break up. Rather than raise the heat, cover and cook as long as it takes. When the eggplant is fully heated, remove from the heat, cover and allow to rest for a minute
Plate or take to table in a serving bowl together with your preferred side dishes
Alternatives
This is by default a vegan dish based on ancient Hindu principals. Sorry, plain and simple.
For inveterate carnivores, while I can think of both lamb and chicken dishes that use eggplant (aubergine) of Indian origin, they understandably have a totally different spice profile—for example, this dish is rather unusual for a South African curry in using no turmeric powder at all—and I think you should look to those other recipes rather than trying to chuck meat and poultry into this particular Durban curry.
Similarly, pescatarians, while I can also think of dishes that are delicious in their combination of fish or seafood and eggplant, they too have a very different spice profile and texture, not so much curries as drier grilled dishes. In other words, don't drop a can of tuna into this one.
Pairings
Like many curries, this dish works well with both beer and wine. I tend towards beer if having it in hot weather, generally cold IPAs or any number of lagers that work well with it. I lazily default to usually having it with Castle Lager, Carling Black Label, or Amstel Lager, all those standard "braai en kerrie" lagers I remember from my youth.
If more in a Sri Lanka mode, I like it with a (cold!) Lion Lager. I think what drew me to this highly popular beer in Sri Lanka was the name. While there were prehistoric lions in Sri Lanka, as I suspected on closer inspection, it's name had far more to do with British colonialism than local aspirations...
On the wine front, obviously I'm going to suggest Chenin Blancs in general, my "old reliable" wine for curries and easily available in many parts of the world. However, because of the smoky undertow in this dish, I actually like it with a number of chilled rosés in hot weather, especially some of the heavier, darker Spanish rosado wines. The problem with Spanish rosé wines is that their reputation now means a lot of them are fairly pricey. Ironically, one of the ones I like most with this dish is very pale and very reasonably priced, for now at least. Ca'N Vidalet Blanc de Negres 2023 is a wine from Mallorca in which the notes of tree fruits—apple, peaches—and citrus are more prominent than the strawberry and red berries notes in many Spanish rosés. This wine works perfectly with this dish.
For those who want a booze-free option, it works spectacularly well with icy cold ginger ale with a slice of lime.
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