Bacon and seafood pie

Bacon and seafood pie is a dish that's perfect for spring, unexpectedly inspired by Kylie Minogue Signature Rosé. Easy, filling and refreshing, my annual riff on the supposedly British institution of fish pie. This year's version includes Italian and Asian Flavours. Spring remains its guiding palate.

Bringing home the bacon

I'm now in full-blown spring mode, but also conscious of just how changeable the weather can be at this time of year. So, I've hedged my bets with something that is both light and fresh, but will also function as a hearty meal if those April showers suddenly appear (remembering that snow or cold snaps are not unknown in London in April).

I've undertaken my annual spring exercise, picking on that supposedly oh-so-British institution of fish pie. I think I've already raised my doubts about this misconception in this earlier take on fish pie, which I'm not going to repeat here.

This version grew out of wanting to create a dish that would intrinsically work with a much maligned category of wine: rosé. Rosé is something that a lot of us associate with carefree spring and summer days. Yet, the cultural references mean that we almost expect it to be a rather ropey form of wine. Sure, there's plenty of proof out there and I would also hold my hands up to the generalisation that it's harder to find a rosé that offers good value for money compared with white or red wines in much of the world. That said, it's not all rosé-tinted tears before bedtime...

This probably explains why I headed in the direction of wanting to work with pancetta, speck or even chorizo. Northern Spain does a nifty slew of dishes that combine white fish, seafood and spicy chorizo in various combinations; Italy to a lesser extent, focussing more on the fattier meats being cut through with citrus. Maybe I'm paranoid because of some feedback that I "only create very spicy dishes". So, I was looking to make something that was full of spring flavour without heading off the nursery slopes to trails too piquant. My original thinking was maybe something that combined chorizo, fish and one of those butch rosados from Navarre.

But, as I was plodding around my nearest sizeable supermarket, perusing the available pink wines, something unexpected happened.

I spotted a wine called Kylie Minogue Signature Rosé. It seemed too surreal to be true, so naturally I reached for it. And yet, it was true.

I can't get you outta my head...

I had had no idea until that incidental encounter that Ms Minogue is now branching out (at least nominally) into French-produced wines. Since I was already busy with an idea of an annual spring fish pie that would use and be paired with a rosé, I couldn’t resist. I’m only sorry now that I didn’t go one step up to the fancier Kylie Minogue Signature Côtes de Provence rosé.

I confess I was expecting something that would get used in the cooking, but that then another wine would be parachuted in for the pairing. I should have had more faith. Kylie Minogue Signature Rosé is a delightful, fresh and breezy rosé that encapsulates that feel-good tingle on the tongue that signals carefree blue skies and the sun's soft warmth on your face. The smoothness is surprising, especially because it’s not accompanied by the sweetness that I had expected with my catty assumptions about its target market. And yet, there is a decent acidity too after a while (no, not enough for wine snobs, but who cares? I not doing it only for the wine, kids) to cut through heavier flavours.

So impressed was I with the quaffable nature of this clean, refreshing wine, that I completely rethought both the dish, opting for bacon rather than the more pressing flavours of Mediterranean cured meats, and the side dishes to go with it. I confess a joy in doing so. Kylie Minogue may not have been a huge musical force in my life, but I have always admired her consummate professionalism as an entertainment industry icon who has deftly sidestepped the potholes into which others of her generation have stepped. She is beautiful with a certain ageless elegance that really lingers after the affable Aussie of first impressions. She is a lady in the very old-fashioned sense of the word. I feel good for being able to honestly say I stand behind her rosé.

Enough arse-kissing, let's get to the food...

Getting grubby

This dish, both conceptually and in the proof, focuses on clean, herbal flavours, something accentuated by this surprisingly smooth, affordable rosé. So, the other change that was needed was to the side dishes. Bluntly, they were going to need to bring a little contrast to avoid the whole affair being a little too smooth and creamy. Even an easy-eating, light-footed spring dish needs a little contrast.

One thing I was clear on was that this could not be citrus. Nothing in Kylie's signature rosé around which the whole dish was reconfigured is citric. White orange blossom perhaps (though I get apple, more) but never oranges. Think summer berries and perhaps even a hint of elderflower. Nope, citrus would kill both the dish and the pairing.

So, I went with my gut in the other direction; earthy, slightly metallic, a bit muddy, even. I'm including four specific side dishes; two pairs served on two occasions. Obviously, there are plenty of other options, but do think about your sides if you use and pair this with Kylie Minogue Signature Rosé (or a similarly delicate rosé).

I'm listing the dried herbs that are central to this dish individually. But, I generally knock them up in fairly large quantities in the spice grinder because I use the combination a lot. Up to you...

I'm using Icelandic cod fillets, but, it works well with any firm white fish such as haddock, hake, coley, pollock or halibut. You may just need to adjust your steaming times depending on the thickness of your fillets.

The quantities of dairy products—the cream in the mash, the grated cheese sprinkled on top when baking—are thought-through and tried and tested (multiple times). They probably seem a little stingy at first glance. I can understand that it might be tempting to increase their quantities. But, trust me when I say I think these are optimal.

This recipe is for 3 to 4 diners but can be scaled up for larger groups. NB: the images illustrating it here are not indicative of quantities.

3 top tips to get this recipe right:

• The use of herbs and cream in this béchamel is precise. When cooking, the temptation might be to add more herbs or spices, such as a dash of nutmeg, often used in Italian béchamel for a good lasagne. Resist. Don't add cheese or cream or anything that you think might lift what seems like a fairly bland sauce if you cook it correctly. If you do, the end result with be creaminess overkill. The lifting flavours are baked in in other ways. If you feel the need to add your own touch, I'd advise you to go for something very green such as basil or even dill. Trust me: I've put the hours in learning what does and doesn't work to get it just right.

• There's an assumption that smoked bacon lardons are somehow less sophisticated than fancier fare such as lardons of pancetta, speck, Jamón Serrano or Jamón Ibérico. And, on many occasions they would be, but this isn't one of them. Having messed with the backbone of this dish for a while now, I've concluded that bog-standard smoked bacon lardons offer exactly the right flavour intensity and ratio of fat to make this dish work.

• I understand the current fashion for wokking kale with a bit of garlic, But, I grew up growing it and cooking it when most didn't even know what it was and had certainly never seen it in a supermarket. Long before this "peasant food" was rebranded as a trendy superfood on which a million food influencers hoped to coast to digital stardom, I was lucky enough to have a father who had a passion for growing "the ugly veggies" and learned a myriad of regional recipes from around the world he passed on to me. The way I'm cooking it is one of those ways. Kale carries the taste of earth, but it shouldn't be an experience that's like trying to chew dirt.

Shopping list

for the bacon and seafood pie

• Cod fillets, skinned and boned; approx. 250g; steamed and cooled

• Approx. 200g smoked bacon lardons

• Approx.150g extra large king prawns; cooked and shelled

• 250ml Kylie Minogue Signature Rosé

• A generous clutch of fresh parsley; finely chopped

• Approx. 400g potatoes; peeled, cooked and mashed

• 1 large carrot, peeled, cooked and roughly mashed

• 3 sticks of fresh celery; finely sliced

• 40ml single cream (optional)

• Approx. 200ml full fat milk

• 2 tbspns unsalted butter

• 2 or 3 dried bay leaves

• 2 tbspns plain flour

• A pinch of dried oregano

• A pinch of dried sage

• A pinch of dried thyme

• A pinch of dried parsley

• Approx. 3tbspns finely grated Pecorino cheese

• Extra virgin olive oil as needed; approx. 3 to 4tbsns

• salt  and pepper to taste

for side dish pair 1 - kale and roasted onions and mushrooms

• Approx. 200g fresh curly kale

• 1 vegetable stock cube, diluted in approx. 500ml boiling water

• Approx. 200g large chestnut mushrooms, washed and drained

• Approx. 400g small red onions, whole; peeled

• 2 tspns smoked garlic, chopped

• 1 tbspn, virgin olive oil

• 2 tspns dark soy sauce

• 1 tbspn sesame oil

• salt and pepper to taste

for side dish pair 2 - panko baby courgettes and samphire with black garlic

• Approx. 2 or 3 baby courgettes per diner

• 1 tspn Marmite (Sorry, Kylie, I tried to get Vegemite...)

• 2 tbspns Mirin

• 2 tbspns rice wine vinegar (or wine vinegar)

• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs

• 2 tbspns cornflour

• 1 egg, whisked

• Approx. 100g fresh samphire

• 1.5 tbspns unsalted butter

• 1 tspn black garlic paste

• salt and pepper to taste

Cooking method

the bacon and seafood pie

1. Boil your potatoes and carrot together. Drain, and mash separately; the potatoes until very smooth, the carrot more roughly. Mix together, folding in the cream if using and seasoning with salt and pepper. Place to one side. Allow time for it to fully cool before you use it for the pie. NB: you can prepare this days before and store in the fridge

2. Make your béchamel, first melting the butter in a medium-hot pan. Add the flour as soon as the butter begins to bubble, stirring vigorously to form a roux. Keep stirring as you add the milk, about 50ml at a time. Wait until the sauce thickens slightly before adding more. Keep stirring the whole time to prevent it from becoming lumpy. When you have have added all (or most of) the milk and the sauce is nearing optimal consistency, reduce to a medium-low heat. Season and add the chopped parsley, stirring constantly. Allow the parsley to barely wilt. Remove from the heat and cool. Again, you can prepare this up to 2 days before and store in the fridge

3. In a reasonably deep frying pan, heat approx. 1 tbspn of the olive oil on a medium heat. Add the lardons, stirring regularly to ensure they brown on all sides, cooking until they shrink and become a little crispy on the edges. Remove with a sieve spoon and place to one side, leaving all of the juices in the pan

4. Add the remaining olive oil, then the celery, and sauté. Add all the dry herbs and bay leaves and stir in, allowing their aromas to release. When the celery begins to soften, add all of the rosé at once and allow it to gradually cook off, stirring occasionally

5. When very little liquid remains in the pan, add the lardons back in, stirring to ensure they're fully coated in the juices. Add salt and pepper to taste, and cook for a further minute or so. Remove from the heat and place to one side

6. Flake your cod into large segments and scatter evenly through an oven-proof baking dish. Add the prawns. Add the lardons, celery and herb mix, and all their juices. Gently fold in, trying not to break up the fish too much.

7. Pour over the béchamel, spreading it evenly through the baking dish. Since it should be fairly thick, you may need to coax it downwards to cover all the ingredients using a fork. Put to one side to allow gravity to work; for the sauce to seep down into the ingredients

8. Using a spatula, spread your mixed mashed potatoes and carrot over the top of the ingredients in the pan. Dip the spatula in very hot water if you find it sticks to the mash. Once fully covered in an even layer of mash, sprinkle on the grated cheese, concentrating around the middle section of the pie

9. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 200°C for 20 to 30mins or until the mash has started to become golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to rest. NB: if the "crust" is not yet golden enough, place under the grill to finish off when your side dishes are in the last 5mins before being ready

10. Take to table and allow to cool a little while you finish your side dishes and take these to table in serving dishes. Once rested, allow diners to dish up for themselves.

    
    

side dish pair 1 - kale and roasted onions and mushrooms

1. In a large pot with a lid, add the kale, the diluted stock and as much additional salted water as needed to give the kale "room". Bring to the boil and boil for approx. 5mins. Reduce the heat so that it is at a gentle simmer

2. Cover and simmer for approx. 20 to 30mins (yes, really!) or until the kale is soft and tender, stirring occasionally to ensure it does not stick. Drain and rest before serving. NB: if you can, catch all the "kale water" when draining, this forms a wonderful vitamin-laden, vegetal-tinged base for a veggie or meat stock

3. In two little dishes, separately mix the virgin olive oil with the smoked garlic and the sesame oil with the dark soy. In the roasting dish, baste the red onions with the former, the mushrooms with the latter. Don't worry too much if there is a bit of crossover. Season with pepper and place in the same oven where your pie is baking. Roast for about 20 to 25mins, re-basting after about 10mins, or until your onions are soft and slightly caramelised. NB: you do want the mushrooms to become somewhat wizened and shrivelled, intensifying the flavour.

4. Plate your side dishes or take to table in serving dishes for diners to help themselves

side dish pair 2 - panko baby courgettes and samphire with black garlic

1. Prick your baby courgettes and steam in a microwave steamer for approx. 2.5mins (900W). Remove and allow them to cool fully. NB: ordinarily, one would baste or marinade steamed ingredients while still warm because it helps absorption. You can do that, but only if you want the yeasty flavours of the Marmite basting liquor to be more prominent in the final dish

2. Once the baby courgettes are cold, slice in half vertically. Mix the Marmite, rice wine vinegar and mirin in a small dish and liberally baste the cooled steamed courgettes on all sides, allowing it to be absorbed for about 20mins or so, re-basting about halfway through

3. Heat your oil on a medium-high heat. This is not deep-frying; you want approx. 2.5cm of oil in the pan. While your oil is heating, set up your "frying station"; separate bowls with the sifted cornflour, whisked egg bath; and panko breadcrumbs. Test that the oil is hot enough by throwing a few panko breadcrumbs into the pan. If they sizzle healthily, you're good to go. If they sizzle furiously, slightly reduce the heat. Panko can cook too quickly at even moderate temperatures

4. Run it assembly line style; coat in the cornflour (which absorbs liquid) and shake off; bathe in the whisked egg; coat in the panko, pressing down hard to ensure enough adheres. NB: they don't have to be fully coated. Lower into the oil using tongs

5. Panko cooks very quickly, so you only want about a minute or so on each side. Use the tongs to check frequently. As soon as each slice is golden brown on all sides, remove using tongs and lay on a plate covered with paper kitchen towel to absorb excess oil. If you cook these before you're ready to cook the samphire, place in the oven to keep warm (by now, you pie should be cooked and merely staying warm in the oven)

6. Add approx. 1.5tbspns unsalted butter to a clean pan. As you melt it on a medium heat, place the black garlic paste on top of the butter so it doesn't burn. As soon as the butter has melted and begins to fizz, stir vigorously and add the samphire. Continue stirring and flipping with a spatula so that the samphire is fully coated with the butter and garlic mixture

7. If, after about 2 to 3mins, the samphire has not yet softened, slightly increase the heat, being diligent to continuously "flip" it to make sure nothing catches or burns. As soon as the samphire is cooked (but al dente) remove from the heat

8. Plate the side dishes together with portions of your pie, or take all to table for diners to help themselves

Alternatives

Yep, this is a carnivore dish because of the bacon. You can easily turn it into a pescatarian dish by proportionally increasing the quantities of white fish and king prawns and leaving out the lardons. But, I would also strongly advise adding smoked garlic at the point at which the bacon is added back to the boozed-up celery or smoked mussels in with the cooked fish and king prawns when assembling the pie just to give it that underpinning smokiness.

This is a neat segue to the most viable lactovegetarian version I have made which involves replacing the white fish with cubed unsmoked tofu, the prawns with large king oyster mushroom slices, blanched for 1min, and the lardons with finely cubed halloumi fried in a pan with olive oil and dabs of hot green vegetable stock (such as the "kale water; see above) until almost slightly burned. I'm cheese-agnostic on this dish, so replace that with a sprinkle of panko breadcrumbs and replace the minimal cream in the mash with a dab of almond milk. This is a tested version behind which I will stand: it's great.

For vegans, really all of the veggie version above is vegan, save for the béchamel. The reason I'm fence-sitting is because, too date, my attempts at vegan béchamel have not been great triumphs; more like molten stodge, actually. If you know how to do it, go for it.

Pairings

This dish was inspired by Kylie Minogue Signature Rosé; to be cooked with it and paired with it. So, I feel like a bit of a cad, an unfaithful lover, for even suggesting other wines. But, the harsh reality is that Kylie can't be there for all of us all of the time. In fact, perhaps her pink wine is never in the place that you live.

There are two wines that spring immediately to mind for pairing (and indeed) cooking. One is now almost too obvious for family nostalgia reasons, Spätburgunder Rosé Weingut Meßmer. This is a very creamy, crisp wine with that hint of fizziness that many German wines do so well with notes of spring red berries. And another is Ladybird Vineyards The Ladybird Rosé, an organic wine from Laibach in the Western Cape. Salmon pink in colour, also with a nice tease of bubbles, it's very balanced with notes of spring red fruits and a certain kind of refreshing juiciness that is almost watery, think watermelon and ripe tomatoes.