Lebanese white fish en papillote

This Lebanese white fish en papillote (i.e. cooked in paper) is a very easy recipe that, with the right side dishes, creates a great meal, no mean feat if you also want to keep it very low-fat, as it is here. Rich, deeply flavoured regional grains and a succulent side salad offset the simple, delicate flavours of the fish.

Caveat emptor

I'm doing a very low-fat version of this recipe—because I am still being a good boy with my post-Holidays regime—even though the original version is low in fats. Apart from the common sense adjustments, if you aren't concerned about fats, check out the "Fat relatives" section below for more specifics on cooking the original.

The fish itself takes less than 30mins to cook, including prep time. And, if you opt for some of the quicker side dish options, you can pull together a tasty supper in less than 30mins.

The French connection

I'm not sure whether it's more accurate to say that this is actually an authentic Lebanese recipe or more one that it is "from Beirut", a Franco-Levantine thing.

On trips to Lebanon, I discovered many wonderful cafés and little eateries serving amazing traditional Lebanese cuisine. While many of the lamb and chicken dishes known around the world were familiar, I was surprised by the variety of fish dishes available, including a an almost sashimi-like dish called crudo. Given Lebanon's coastline, this really shouldn't have been a surprise. Other favourites included fish with a delicious spiced rice, caramelised onions and toasted almonds, and a dish of white fish in a rich tahini sauce.

But, I also came across a kind of fusion cuisine produced by a younger generation of chefs that celebrated Lebanon's French connections that seemed to be a bit of a trend at the times I was there. Unsurprisingly, these were notable in little restaurants located in independent hotels catering largely to French guests. There were lots of traditional Lebanese elements to these dishes on their menus, but also quite a lot of French influences. One of these was that all of these places I visited offered a dish of white fish en papillote—fish baked in parchment paper—that I never saw in the more staunchly traditional eateries.

French twist

Cooking fish in parchment paper was already part of French cuisine's canon by the 17th century according to all the august epicurean historians. Needless to say, the Italians claim that they had done it earlier. Regardless of its provenance—and let's not forget that numerous other cultures have been doing the equivalent with banana and other leaves for millennia—it was a clever evolution to keep the moisture inside the fish, particularly delicate white fish, when cooking in ovens that offered extremely limited temperature control.

Another benefit, ignored during the first two centuries this technique was used, but turned into a presentation flourish in the 19th century, was that the paper pouch was also an excellent way of keeping it piping hot on that long stretch from kitchen to table in the new generation of huge 19th-century luxury hotel restaurants. So, it was often taken to table in the closed paper to be opened, like a wrapped gift, by the lucky diner. In fact, it became so en vogue, that the American press of the day heaped praise on canny homegrown restaurateurs who emulated the trend that transatlantic socialites "discovered in Paris".

A bit like "chicken in a basket" in the 1970s, during the 19th century, this was a dish where the mode—perhaps even more than the content—represented a delightful at-table freedom for a generation of (quite literally) corseted Mayflower Mary WASPs and the wannabe nouveau riche who'd had table etiquette drilled into them. This way of serving it in the paper pretty much became its default serving style and it's what I am doing here.

Having proof of concept with fish, French chefs also applied the technique to lamb and chicken dishes. Exactly what goes into the sealed parchment paper (or non-stick baking paper) that is then tightly folded or twisted closed before effectively cooking through a combination of steaming and baking in a hot oven, is really down to who's cooking it, from nothing at all to more complex fare including herbs, spices, vegetables, sauces, stock or wine. In some parts of France, quite a lot of vegetables are added, particularly those that equally benefit from keeping the moisture and delicate flavours close—asparagus, fine green beans, artichoke hearts etc.—but in Southern France, sparing amounts of tomato-based sauces, a bit like a slightly undercooked ratatouille, are preferred.

The versions I tasted in Lebanon were closer to these, combining an almost Provençal sensibility with local ingredients and seasonings. And it's these versions that I'm drawing on in this recipe that is both an aggregation and a reconstruction: I was never fortunate enough to talk with the chefs cooking these dishes, so had to "reverse engineer" them after having eaten versions at a number of places at various times.

Fishy choices

While cooking en papillote can be used for different types of fish, seafood, poultry or lamb, its origins lie in finding a way to not dry out fast-cooking white fish. Obviously, you can cook in this manner with varieties of fish beyond what gets labelled "white fish". Nonetheless, I would think it through. For example, it's not a method I'd use to cook "meaty" fish such as tuna steaks or swordfish. Similarly, while it works well with salmon fillets, I would not pair them with this basting sauce (or tomatoes in general). I'd think more of things like asparagus, mushrooms, and artichokes or celery, etc.

When I dined (on versions on which this recipe is based) in the Levant, it was always either with cod or sea bass. And, indeed, I'm doing it with skinless fillets of Icelandic cod here. No, it doesn't have to be skinless. But, if you are cooking it with the skin on, always place the skin side down on the paper. At home in the North, I found it works incredibly well with fillets of Dover sole (aka common sole) or turbot. You choose the one you like...

Fat relatives

As already proclaimed—and reflected in the ingredients—this is a very low fat version of this recipe. The original version is already relatively low in fats but if on a hardcore regime, here are a few points of difference...

Most significantly, if not crunching down the fat content, the cooking process in the early stages is a little easier. Bypass the microwave stage with the basting sauce and directly sauté the onion and green bell pepper in 3tbspns of olive oil (versus 1tspn).

Use full-fat Greek-style yoghurt in the dressing (versus fat-free) for the salad and possibly increase the tahini input.

If you're also on a low-carb regime, you can substitute the Lebanese spiced mixed grains for steamed broccoli or carrots dressed with a little crushed mint—or serve both with a very small portion of the mixed grains or couscous.

This version is for 2 to 3 diners. Scale up or down as needed.

3 top tips to get this recipe right:

• Cook the tomato sauce for basting with sufficient time for it to be fully cooled before basting over the top of the raw fish. If the sauce is hot it will start "cooking" the surface of the fish meaning it may become overcooked once the fish is cooked through in the oven.

• Don't be tempted to add delicious Middle Eastern spices to the basting sauce. With most white fish it will potentially overpower the delicate flavour of the fish itself. One of the things I noticed about this Franco-Levantine dish in Beirut is that the basting sauces were all kept pretty "clean" and relatively fresh, allowing the flavour of the fish itself to come through. Those heady spices were kept to the side dishes, creating a wonderful contrast.

• I'm opting to use black garlic paste here because it's sweet, subtle and its relative mildness works very well when cooking down in a basting sauce that is effectively "undercooked". It's fine to swap it out for ordinary garlic paste. But, if using fresh garlic, I strongly recommend you make it into a paste at the very least to not overpower the fish.

Shopping list

for the Lebanese white fish en papillote

• A fillet/s of skinless fresh white fish per diner (e.g. cod, haddock, sea bass etc.)

• 1 green bell pepper; one half sliced into rings, the other very finely chopped

• 1 red onion (or brown); very finely chopped

• Approx. 175g small ripe baby plum tomatoes; roughly puréed, skin on

• 1tspn virgin olive oil

• 1 fresh lemon; one half sliced; the other half roughly squeezed

• 2tpns black garlic paste (or equivalent in very finely grated fresh garlic)

• A clutch of fresh flat leaf parsley; very finely chopped

• 1tspn dried oregano

• salt and pepper to taste

Please see the notes below on the side dishes, since there are a lot of options, including speedier options than the ones I'm doing. But, for what I am doing here, the ingredients are...

for the Lebanese spiced mixed grains

• ⅓ of a cup each of cooked wheat berries, wholegrain rice and freekah

• Half a peeled fresh apple; very finely grated

• 1 medium fresh mild red chilli; roughly chopped

• ¼ cup of the tomato basting sauce for the fish (see below)

• 2 handfuls of flaked almonds; roughly crushed

• 2tspns of concentrated tomato paste

• ½tspn Lebanese 7 Spice mix

• Boiling water as needed

• salt and pepper to taste

for the cob and fresh fig salad with tahini and pomegranate dressing

• Approx. ½ a cob lettuce per diner; washed and leaves hand-torn

• Cucumber; (about 5 to 6cm per diner), roughly chopped into pieces

• 2 fresh figs per diner; quartered vertically

• ½cup Greek-style (fat-free) yoghurt

• 2tbspns tahini

• 2tspns of pomegranate molasses

• salt and pepper to taste

Cooking Method

the Lebanese white fish en papillote

1. In a mini chopper, finely chop the onion and half the green pepper. Place the finely chopped onion and green pepper in a microwaveable dish. Mix in the juice of half a fresh lemon and microwave on full power (900W) for 3mins. While this is cooking, use the uncleaned mini chopper to chop the fresh parsley and tomatoes

2. Add the olive oil to a saucepan with a lid and heat on a medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the microwaved onion and bell pepper (and any juices) and stir vigorously. Because you are using so little oil, it will be absorbed quickly. As soon as it is, add the chopped tomatoes and parsley and any juices, stirring in

3. Allow the tomatoes to simmer—if they don't produce enough liquid and begin to stick, add approx. 30ml water. Add the dried oregano and (black) garlic paste and stir in. Reduce to a low heat, cover and gently simmer on a low heat for about 10mins

4. Uncover and check. Season with salt and black pepper as needed. Depending on how much the sauce has reduced, add approx. half a cup of water. Re-cover and simmer for another 15mins. Then uncover and simmer for a further 5mins or so, until it has reduced to a fairly thick basting sauce—but where the tomatoes still remain a little undercooked compared with a classic pasta tomato sauce. Remove from the heat and allow to cool

5. When the basting sauce has fully cooled to room temperature, season your fish fillets on both sides with rock salt. Place each fillet on its own sheet of non-stick baking paper (parchment paper), with the outer side of the fish face-down. Each sheet should be at least 30x30cm. NB: if your are using notably small fillets and want each diner to have two, place both in the same pouch. The "rule" is that each pouch is one serving

6. You want to ensure there is sufficient excess paper to fold/twist in tightly so it doesn't unravel during cooking. Thus, place the fish off-centre—you want smooth paper facing up in the oven and the folds/twists to be around the edges (see image above)

7. Baste the upper sider of each fillet with a generous amount of the basting sauce, but leave small sections uncoated at the edge of each fillet. Place a slice of raw green bell pepper and a slice of lemon on top of each basted fillet and season with a little roughly ground black pepper. If you wish, you can also place a clove of raw peeled garlic into each "pouch"—I don't because I think it verges on overpowering delicate white fish

8. Tightly fold/twist in the baking paper to form a pouch that is fairly tightly wrapped, close to the fish on the top side. Place the pouches on a non-stick backing tray and cook in an oven pre-heated to 200°C. The cooking time will be anywhere between 12 and 20mins depending on how large and thick your fillets are. However, unless using notably thin fillets (such as basa, sole or some types of haddock) I find it usually takes about 14mins to optimally cook

9. While the fish is baking, prepare your side dishes. Depending of what fish you have chosen, you may need to start preparing these before putting the fish in the oven

10. Remove the pouches from the oven. Carefully plate, unopened. Take to table together with your side dishes and allow your guests to enjoy opening their "gift wrapped" fish

Side dishes

When I ate this dish numerous times in Lebanon, it was served with each chef's signature side dishes. Yet, one was always a salad, the other some form of grains. I'm opting for a mix 'n match approach, serving a salad very much like one I had previously eaten. But, I'm opting for a mixed grains dish that takes a bit more time and fuss. If you're pressed for time, you can always opt for couscous with whatever spices and tasty ingredients you desire. This was the side on one occasion I ordered it in Beirut. In two other places, it was served with the more traditional Lebanese side of rice cooked with caramelised onions, garlic and peas and spiced with Lebanese 7 Spice mix.

The mixed grains dish I am doing—which includes wheat berries, wholegrain rice and freekeh—will seem like a lot of fuss, because each grain needs to be cooked separately, firstly since they don't share cooking times/methods. But, I usually cook these in larger quantities because the same mix, used hot here, also makes wonderful salads.

the Lebanese spiced mixed grains

1. Add the cooked wheat berries, wholegrain rice and freekah to an ovenproof dish with a lid. NB: for the quantities for two to four people, you will want a third of a cup, but scale as needed. Add the finely grated apple, and a chopped raw mild red chilli. Stir in

2. Take about a quarter of a cup of the excess basting sauce—you definitely will not need all of it if basting fish for 2 to 3 diners as per this recipe—and add half a teaspoon of Lebanese 7 Spice mix, 2tspns of concentrated tomato paste, and stir in. Fill the cup until approx. two thirds full with boiling water. Pour this over the cooked grains and mix in. Cover and bake, uninterrupted, alongside the fish. If you think your fish cooking time is going to be less than 15mins, place the dish in the oven earlier

3. Just before the fish is due to be ready, remove from the oven to check that all of the liquid has cooked in. If not, stir and return uncovered to the oven to cook off the excess liquid, checking to see whether it needs additional salt before doing serving

4. Once all excess liquid has evaporated, remove from the oven. Add the crushed flaked almonds to the still hot dish and stir in. Cover, allowing the almonds to be warmed by the grains, but not actually cooked

5. Take to table in a serving dish or as plated portions

the cob and fresh fig salad with tahini and pomegranate dressing

1. Tear washed cob lettuce leaves into a serving bowl or individual salad dishes. Add the chopped cucumber and toss. In terms of portions, plan for approx. half a cob lettuce per diner and about 5 to 6cm of a standard cucumber—chopped into larger pieces rather than thin slices—per diner

2. Arrange the fresh figs, cut vertically into quarters on the top of the salad; about two figs per diner

3. Create the dressing by mixing half a cup of (zero-fat) yoghurt, 2tbsns of tahini and 2tspns of pomegranate molasses. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Dress the salad just before taking to table—or at table if you have fussy guests

Alternatives

This is an unquestionably a pescatarian dish, kinda its raison d'être. The easy answer addressing vegans and vegetarians would be to say, "Move on. There are more suitable dishes". That would have been before wanting certain people to have their places at my table—and a more general principle learned from my grandmother that anyone who cannot accommodate the needs of guests is merely pulling up the drawbridge in defeat; a truly failed host.

There is nothing like love for those one wants at one's table to inspire a rethink. After years of cooking this number I realised it's merely about turning the tables. For some time I had been cooking vegetables—such as asparagus, green beans, Romanesco broccoli, etc.—en papillote with this kind of basting sauce as a side dish.

Eventually the penny dropped: it's a simple pivot. The basted veggies en papillote, certainly. But as a side dish. The main plant-based dish should be the Lebanese spiced grains, akin to a pilaff or risotto. Simply add whole cashews, large pieces of mushroom or Quorn chicken-like chunks and the options emerged. Obviously, for a vegan version, dress with a mix of olive oil, tahini, pomegranate molasses and a little fresh lemon juice.

For carnivores, skinless chicken or turkey breasts treated pretty much like white fish—though cooked a tad longer—work very well.

Pairings

On the whole I can't remember all the wines with which I have paired this dish. In Lebanon it was paired with amazing High Altitude Bekaa Valley whites from august wineries that, even back then, they told me were produced in such small batches that the only place you could find them outside of Lebanon was Paris.

Thus, I have tended to go for "next best"—and in many ways "fresher" wines, such as Swiss pinot gris wines for which I developed a taste while working there a decade ago.

About a year ago I tried it with a British pinot gris. All I got was a big noise, a big price and little satisfaction, so I won't even mention its name. Stick with the Swiss or a stonking Pazo Señorans Tras Los Muros Albariño that really can deliver as a pairing for this dish as it did on this occasion.